Sufi dudes

Sufism is popular, particularly with young Moroccans. It's described as a mystical dimension of Islam and can be found in many Islamic groups, including Sunni and Shia groups.

Sufis are known for their tolerance, modernity and balance between religious obligations and secular pursuits such as music and art. Sufi gatherings combine chants, prayers and debates, giving followers an avenue to discuss issues ranging from faith and politics to environmental degradation, drugs and social charity.

The guys in the photo are Gnawa musicians from the Sahara. Apparently they are the descendents of Europeans and African slaves brought to Morocco between the 12th and 17th centuries.

Their music was low-pitched bluesy chanting of Sufi verses, carried by a booming drum beat, lots of hand clapping, jangly krakeb cymbals (they let me have a go - but only once) and some funky dance moves and dervish work.

The Gnawas are also known for their healing rituals, in which they treat anything from a plant disease to a scorpion sting with colours, scents, cultural imagery, animism and fright.

Rockin' the kasbah

Ok pop-quizzers, what does that Clash song say about kasbahs?

We had a diversity of responses from fellow travellers, ranging from 'Cherie don't like it' to 'Charlene does lightning', and a fair amount of robust discussion in between.

According to Mr Google, 'Sharia (as in sharia law) don't like it', which I quite understand, given some of the other lyrics.

We saw heaps of spectacular kasbahs (fortified dwellings built by Berber families) in the Todra and Dades Valleys, and they certainly rocked.

In celebration of Fatima*

This entry exists so Meredith will stop bugging me about appearing in the blog.

Needless to say, Meredith is fabulous and witty, and is exceptionally gifted - not least in the areas of navigation, key-keeping and camelaneous transport. She is also an inspirational songstress.

* All references to characters and qualities in this text may or may not be fictitious.

Veni Vidi Volubilis

We visited some brilliant Roman ruins - surrounded by olive groves and wheat fields - near Meknes. The site was thought to have been first settled around 3 BC by the Carthaginians and then taken over by the dear old Romans (at its peak the population was about 20 000) in around 4 AD. They switched off the lights in about 280 AD.

Only about half of Volubilis has been excavated so far and this is more problematic because of the Lisbon earthquake in 1755, which flattened the site, and much of the country as well.

What has been excavated is fabulous, particularly the mosaic tiled floors (in original condition) and the baths (less the Italian marble accesories). There is a very cool main street with tablets illustrating who was selling what, an olive press, a forum and basilica, massive entry gates and miscellaneus pillars and columns. Archaeologists have yet to find the colluseum, but they have a good idea where it is and just need the funding to get digging.

Squeaky clean

In every district in every town of Morocco, you will find four things - a mosque, a religious school for kids, a communal bakery and a hammam, or traditional tiled bathhouse.

The hammam is always close to the mosque so they can share a common water source. For locals, they are social places where women (and men, but not at the same time - there are shifts to separate genders) get together to gossip, relax and wash (probably in that order).

For westerners, it takes a little longer to shed years of inhibitions and give yourself over to the hammam experience, but is well worth the initial blushing.

Many suds and buckets of water on, I have a few dozen layers less of dead skin and soft nut-scented skin. Squeaky clean, jelly bean!

Cameleering 101

Important things to know about camels:

1. Riding them is somewhat uncomfortable. Especially downhill.
2. Camels rarely spit and have quite pleasant manners.
3. However, they don't like you touching their feet or their faces (a bit like Trevor really).
4. Only the males are used for camel trains (females are used for making baby camels). My camel's name was Ernesto.
5. They have long eyelashes, a curly tuft at the back of their head and teeth worthy of Shane MacGowan.
6. Cameleering really is a word!